Thursday, January 22, 2009

Camels and Trains in India

Show allA new year begins with a 2-week adventure in India.....Exploring "the golden triangle" of Delhi-Agra-Rajastan with Jono, who has been volunteering in Avani - a voluntary organization in the Central Himalayas which is building a base of economic growth for a small community by nurturing solar energy, rainwater collection and the emergence of some high priced textile designs using indigenous dyes and techniques. Jono was ready for change - having mastered Hindi and tinkered with some various engineering solutions to a heating problem - and I was ready to travel - so we arranged for him to play tourist for a while with me.

I arrived late at night into the cacaphony of Delhi traffic - camels and horses pulling wagons alongside whizzing motorcycles, honking buses, weaving rickshaws, and basic white cars whizzing through lights and intersections. In the midst of this chaos - and they all drive on the British side of the roads - we slowed down for an elephant lumbering through the fog. Quite a welcome to India!

Jono and I travelled by car to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and then on to Ranthambore National Park in search of the elusive tigers.


















We spent two days in Jaipur marveling at the old sandstone carved buildings, the complex observatory architecture at Jantar Majan, and the kite flyers on the old fort walls.




Then we took bus and train into the countryside to spend a few days at Barefoot College in Tilonia - Bunker Roy's 30-year old center that inspired Avani and other outposts in the philosophy of using the natural education of the people to solve the problems close at hand. Delight of delights



-Barefoot College was also hosting a visit by 300+ young people on the Jagritiyatra train tour of social change role models in India. Great way to get a sense of what's happening in India NGO's!







The desert towns of Jodphur and Jaisalmer were the site of considerable Rajastan color - in the architecture, the clothing and the dunes. We were there to ride camels, see bollywood films and explore the narrow streets of the forts and haveli's.


The return to Delhi by overnight train was punctuated by chai sellers and dusty stops - and the last night in Delhi was a reminder how little we really saw of India. The Craft Museum and our drink with a local NGO leader provided glimpses in morer stories to come.

Headed back to Austin by way of Helsinki, London and NYC/Long Island....happy to transition by reading Shantarem's exploits in Mumbai. The country was an overwhelming experience - seeing the kind of poverty that can only be found in India, being part of the street scenes that jumbled camels, monkeys, barbers, snake charmers, cell phone shops, food carts, hand pumps, horse drawn trucks, beggars, school children, tekkies on motorbikes, and sari-garbed women........eating some of the finest spiced foods available.......trying to breathe through the smoky air......cringing at the trash on the streets and the public toilets, delighting in all the amazing buildings and textiles and the music all around, and enjoying the hospitality of some lovely small hotels most beloved by backpackers and families.

India now has a special place in my heart.

No comments: